Craft Your Own Versatile Fold-Away Picnic Basket

The Inspiration Behind Your Next Favorite Picnic Essential

The idea for this unique fold-away picnic basket was sparked by two cherished items: a fantastic foldable basket discovered at a thrift store, which always garnered compliments, and a treasured Easter basket lovingly made by my mother when I was just nine years old (a basket my daughter still uses today!). Combining the best features of both – the collapsible convenience of the thrift store find and the personal touch and durability of my mother’s creation – led to this innovative design. This tutorial guides you through making a personalized, sturdy, and easily storable picnic basket, perfect for any occasion.

• Length: 26 inches (This includes 1/2-inch seam allowance on all sides).
• Width: 23 inches (This includes 1/2-inch seam allowance on all sides).
• Crucial Notches for Alignment:
  • Along the 26-inch (Long) Sides: Make a notch 7.5 inches in from each outside edge. These notches will guide the placement of the finished sides/folds of the gusset and assist in positioning the twill tape for closure.
  • Along the 23-inch (Shorter) Sides: Make a notch 7.5 inches in from each outside edge. Similar to the long sides, these mark the finished side/fold lines and aid in twill tape placement.
  • Center Notches: From the exact center of each side, measure 2 inches outwards on either side. Make a notch at both 2-inch marks. This creates a 4-inch space in the center, crucial for strap alignment.

• Measurements for Fabric/Pellon: 9 inches deep/long x 10 inches wide.
• Hem Allowance: There is a 1.5-inch bottom hem, and a standard 1/2-inch seam allowance on the remaining three sides.

Cut 2 pieces from your main Fabric.

Cut 4 pieces from Craft Weight Fusible Pellon.

Cut 2 pieces from Plastic Canvas. These should be approximately 6.5 inches x 10.5 inches (again, subtracting 1/2 inch from the finished fabric dimension for a perfect fit).

• Measurements for Fabric/Pellon: 9 inches deep/long x 12 inches wide.
• Hem Allowance: This piece features a 1-inch bottom hem and a 1/2-inch seam allowance on the other three sides.
• Marking Hem and Straps: Make a notch 1.5 inches up from the bottom edge of the piece to clearly mark the hemline. Find the center point (by folding the piece in half) and measure 2 inches outwards on each side, making another notch through both layers of fabric. These marks indicate where your straps will align.

• Measurements for Cutting: 8-inch squares. (This will result in 7-inch finished squares with a 1/2-inch seam allowance on all sides).
• Design Detail: You have the option to round the outside corners of these gusset pieces for a softer, more stylized look, or you can leave them square. I personally prefer the rounded aesthetic. To achieve this, simply use a rounded object (like a cup or a cap) as a template, align it with the corner’s side lines, and trace the curve.

• Measurements for Fabric/Pellon: 9.5 inches wide x 13 inches long. This includes a 1.5-inch hem at one end.

• Accurate Cutting: Begin by carefully cutting the correct number of pieces as specified in the pattern dimensions above.
  • Cutting Strategy: For symmetrical pieces, like the large outside panel, I prefer to fold the fabric in half lengthwise and lay the pattern piece on the fold before cutting. This ensures perfect symmetry.
  • Grainline Alignment: Always ensure your pattern pieces are aligned consistently with the fabric grain. For instance, all inner basket pieces should have their length running parallel to the fabric’s length (or grainline). The outer piece simply needs to be laid straight on the fabric’s length.

• Standard Seam Allowance: Remember, all seam allowances are 1/2 inch, unless specifically noted otherwise for hems.
• Hemming Technique: All hems are designed to be 1.5 inches. My preferred method for a clean finish is to first turn the hem under 1/2 inch and press, then turn it under an additional 1 inch and press again, creating a neat edge ready for stitching.
• Prepare Webbing: Cut your webbing into one continuous piece, approximately 96 inches long. Once cut, very carefully use a flame (like from a lighter) to gently seal the raw ends of the webbing. This crucial step prevents fraying, ensuring a long-lasting handle.

• Attaching the Webbing Handles to the Outer Cover:
  • Lay your main outside cover fabric RIGHT side up on a flat, clean surface.
  • Refer to the center notches on the long sides, which are 4 inches apart. These will guide the placement of your handles.
  • Begin by placing one end of the webbing at the very center of the bottom edge of the fabric, ensuring the edge of the webbing aligns.
  • If helpful, use a long ruler, L-square, or yardstick to connect the handle notches on the sides, creating a visual guide for the webbing path.
  • Carefully pin the webbing down, following the planned path around the basket.
  • As you approach the top of the basket, stop approximately 2.5 inches from the fabric’s top edge and pin. Then, measure out 24 inches for the handle loop itself.
  • Gently loop the webbing to form the handle, being meticulous not to twist it. Bring the webbing back down on the opposite side, beginning your pinning again 2.5 inches down from the top edge.
  • Repeat this looping and pinning process for the other handle on the opposite side of the basket.
  • You will eventually return to where you started, overlapping the webbing by approximately 1 inch.
  • Important Note: You do not need to cut the webbing into separate pieces (except for the initial 96-inch length). It should remain one continuous piece throughout this attachment process, which provides greater strength and a cleaner finish.

• Sewing Down the Webbing:
  • Starting from the outside top edge of one handle, sew along the entire length of the webbing, securing it firmly to the outer cover.
  • When you reach the 2.5-inch mark from the top, stop with your needle down. Pivot your fabric and sew across the width of the webbing (a horizontal stitch for reinforcement). With the needle still down, pivot again and continue sewing back down the length of the webbing, creating a strong double-stitched handle base.
  • Repeat this box-stitch pattern as you approach the middle bottom of the basket where you started.
  • Overlap your webbing ends by 1 inch and continue sewing up to the top of the last handle, reinforcing all attachment points.

• Fusing the Pellon Interfacing:
  • Using a hot iron, carefully follow the manufacturer’s directions for your specific Craft Pellon.
  • Fuse the Pellon to the wrong side of all your fabric pieces: the large one-piece outside basket, and all inner and bottom pieces.
  • Align the Pellon pieces with your fabric using the notches you’ve created to ensure perfect placement before ironing.
  • Press firmly and evenly until the Pellon is securely bonded to the fabric. This step adds essential stability and body to your basket.

• Constructing the Inner Basket Bottom:
  • Take your two bottom fabric pieces. Place them right sides together.
  • Sew along three sides with a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
  • On the fourth side, create a 1.5-inch hem, but leave this side open. This opening will form the pocket for the plastic canvas insert.

• Sewing Hems on Inner Long and Short Side Panels:
  • First, carefully sew the designated 1.5-inch hems on the long and short side panels of the inner basket.
  • Next, attach the gussets to the short sides of these panels, right sides together, using a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
  • Expert Tip: You may find it necessary to carefully clip the point of the gusset where the two hems converge. This allows the fabric to lay flat and sew smoothly into what is essentially a precise corner.

• Pressing and Topstitching Inner Seams:
  • After sewing, press all seams open or to one side.
  • Turn the raw edges of the seams to the inside and topstitch at 1/4 inch. This step encloses the raw edges, creating a clean, durable, and professional finish for the inner basket.

• Decorate Now for Ease: If you plan to add an iron-on transfer, fabric paint, embroidery, or any other decorative element, now is the ideal time to do it. The fabric is still a single layer and flat, making application much simpler and more accurate than decorating a fully constructed basket.
• Learning from “Oops!”: During my project, an iron-on transfer I used (either old or faulty) didn’t adhere correctly.

  (This is where the “OOPS!” happened)

  (This is the clever FIX)

  Instead of discarding it, I created small patches with the iron-on detail and then topstitched them neatly onto the basket.

  I actually found that this “fix” added an unexpected and appealing detail to the basket, turning a mistake into a unique design feature!

• Joining Outer and Inner Basket:
  • Lay the outside cover fabric with its right side facing up.
  • Place the assembled inside/lining fabric directly on top, ensuring their right sides are facing each other.
  • Carefully position the twill tape pieces along the inside of the notches on the outer fabric. The seams from your gussets on the inner lining should also align precisely with these notches.

• Pinning for Precision:
  • Securely pin all layers into place. I always advocate for generous pinning; it greatly aids in preventing fabric shifting, especially when dealing with multiple layers. If you’re highly skilled, you might manage with fewer pins, but it’s always better to be safe.
  • Crucial Check: Before sewing, make absolutely sure that the handle webbing and the twill tape ties are tucked neatly towards the inside of the basket and are not caught in the seam allowance. I usually fold the webbing and twill tape inwards and pin them securely to the center of the cover to keep them out of the way.

• Sewing the Perimeter:
  • Sew all around the edge of the basket with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. While a 1/4-inch seam allowance is often used for inner seams, this area of the picnic basket will experience considerable wear and tear. A 1/2-inch seam provides much-needed durability and strength.

• Clipping and Turning:
  • Carefully clip the corners (or curve them if you opted for rounded gussets) of the seam allowance. This reduces bulk and allows for a clean turn.
  • Gently turn the entire cover right side out.
  • Press all edges flat, ensuring the seams are crisp and well-defined.
  • Topstitch with a 1/4-inch seam allowance all around the perimeter. This not only provides a professional finish but also adds strength to the edge.
    • Reinforcing the Gussets: I also recommend stitching the gusset sections to the outside cover for added stability. To do this, press the inside lining flat, then lay the entire piece flat. With the inside facing you, stitch a single line into the existing seam (not the topstitch) of the gusset. This discreetly secures the gussets to the outer shell.

• Final Press and Bottom Insertion:
  • Press the entire basket again, if necessary, to ensure a neat appearance.
  • Lay the bottom plastic canvas insert into its designated fabric pocket.

• Insert Canvas: Once all fabric components are assembled and the plastic canvas pieces are precisely cut to size, carefully insert each plastic canvas piece into its corresponding fabric pocket within the inner lining of the basket.

• Clean Up: Clip any stray threads for a professional, tidy finish.
• Secure the Bottom (Optional, but Recommended): Apply double-stick Velcro tape to the bottom plastic canvas insert. Remove the sticky backing from the opposite side of the tape and press the insert firmly into the bottom of the basket. This prevents the bottom support from shifting during use.